There’s so many mods out there for them too because of their openness, I’ve got a v2.4, flying gantry is cool as heck but I’d consider doing a trident, the 350mm bed size is overkill for most of my prints.

I find mine produces some really nice parts, able to hit chamber temps into the 60s pretty reliably, warp isn’t really a huge concern for me with it.

Are you able to mess with the first layer offset on the bambu printers? May need to bring your nozzle a bit closer, especially with a textured surface. Temps seem comparable to the stuff I have on hand.

For cleaning, is soap and water compatible with your surface? Personally found that while IPA is fine for maintenance, a few drops of unscented dish soap in water works extremely well as a degreaser, I’ve literally washed stubborn surfaces in the sink. Petg is super picky with any residual oils and the small nozzle could totally make that worse.

Maybe try running slower? Just to eliminate variables, may be worth running a quick extrusion calibration? Petg can be an absolute pain for bed adhesion in my experience.

I posted this a while back, came across a post on hackaday on doing clear lens on a resin printer with lower effort, the article links an older one about doing clear resin prints that might be helpful. To me they look pretty decent, certainly a heck of a lot better than any transparent prints I’ve done with a filament printer.

As others said though, easiest would probably be doing something like laser cut acrylic and sandwiching the picture between them.

It’ll cause more zits and the like, more stringing, don’t know that’d 100% cause the issue but certainly won’t help.

I just did a round of nylon last week which is also super hygroscopic, bag’s like at most 8 months old but seal was intact. Even printing out of a drybox with fresh desiccant I noticed more stringing and occasional blobs + nozzle buildup over the few days (Was redoing my hotend so I inspected it, no sign of nozzle leaking), can definitely make overhangs worse.

Could try turning the bow forward and see if that changes anything. From what I’ve read, start low with the fan, like 10-15%.

All else fails, still say worth drying it if you can, I’ve had some really damp spools fresh out of the bag before.

What printer and what orientation did you print these?

Almost looks like some of the ones I’ve done in abs where I didn’t get proper cooling (turned to have the bow @ 45°, 90° being straight toward the rear of the printer for reference) either from my fan settings or orientation, could try increasing the fan speed? I know you said you’ve dropped the temperature but personally I still find I need to have the part cooling fan on (do print enclosed though so YMMV)

How dry is the filament, afaik tpu is hygroscopic (been a while since I’ve printed with it unfortunately), I’ve seen messy bow show up on less dry filament, always worth a try anyhow just to remove variables.

Semi related, I was thinking about turning my mk3 into a core xy, came across a conversion for a mk3s that looks to reuse quite a few components, ProosaXY. I really like how many different mods people have done with these old machines, definitely helps keep things useful