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Still are, but I guess a lot of people don’t know much about them

Filament not sticking to itself sounds pretty unusual… Found this review on youtube. The channel has 6 subscribers and I have no idea if it’s legit or disguised marketing, but all the comments mention similar problems as yours. There’s also this review, with more negative comments. One person says they managed to get good prints by raising the print temp even more, but don’t do that if you have a PTFE lined hotend. I.e. only try higher temps if you know for sure that you have an all metal hotend.

So far that has never happened because I’m not using that much storage :) But I shut it down when I need to turn off the mains electricity, and for powering it on afterwards the fake wall can be lifted off. It’s just the area underneath the desk so the panel might be smaller than it sounds like, and it hangs on some hooks so it’s fairly easy to remove if you know what you’re doing. Painted in the same colour as the wall, and with some some random junk on the floor in front, it blends in quite well though. I think the risk of burglary is fairly low, so it’s primarily to soothe my own paranoia.

I mounted mine on the wall under a desk in a room with no other electronics, and then put up a fake wall in front of the server. It can draw in air from the sides, and exhaust upwards behind the desk. But the only real solution is offsite backup, which will also protect against fire and other disasters.

Maybe something is wrong with the script generating these test prints, if you don’t have any similar problems with normal prints?

In addition to the blobs in the middle of the circles, I think it looks overextruded/blobby every time it changes direction. E.g. if you look at the -20 sample, it looks generally underextruded as one would expect. Though it’s also blobby around the edges, where the lines make a U-turn. Since the printer usually slows down at turns (unless your acceleration is set insanely high) this could be an indication that you’re exceeding your hotends melting capacity, i.e. either temp is too low or speed is too high, so it would be interesting to know what you calibrated those values to. I don’t think this is usually associated with random blobbing in the middle of the print, but could be worth checking just in case.

If you have a PTFE lined hotend, this kind of blobbing can also be caused by bowden gap IIRC. Might be easier to provide suggestions and ideas if you added some information about what printer you have, what filament it is, and what your other slicer settings are.

DRM filament spools has already been a thing, XYZprinting tried it but luckily it didn’t catch on and they went bankrupt a few years ago.

Official repo says $114 per arm, but I didn’t check their math :) https://github.com/huggingface/lerobot