Thanks! I’m saving that link, and I’ve also saved your list of when you change patterns for future reference.

That’s a nice service, thanks for the share! However, I couldn’t quickly get an overview of what metadata may be included in a .3mf file, so I won’t upload it for now. Thanks for the offer to look at the file though. :)

Gyroid infill used to be the default in PrusaSlicer, but they changed it to grid when the MK4 came out with input shaping and much higher speeds. Straight lines gain most from the increased acceleration. Gyroid will now make your printer vibrate like crazy.

Good to know - don’t think my neighbors would be all to pleased with additional noise (and not me either).

This is also not cubic infill, that’s another one (which I would recommend over grid for structural pieces). I actually almost always use Adaptive Cubic infill, which saves a lot of filament.

Ah nice, it seems that the adaptive cubic will make larger pockets? Neither cubic nor adaptive cubic seems very… cubic to me, though. Why is it called this?

So far I’ve not been making any structural pieces, but that is something I will remember for when I do.

I also believe that your print would probably had turned out fine in the end, it doesn’t seem like there were any catastrophic failures in your photos, despite the noise.

Hm, OK, maybe - I think however it would have been difficult for me to keep it going when it sounds like I am destroying the printer for every layer

Do you know of a secure and private file drop where I could upload the file? I am not to keen to share anything from a personal account here.

Is there a good way to set it up with a remote?

It’s how I have been running it for the last two years now. Coupled with Jellyfin, it is such a better experience. My mother just got a new TV - I think I will set up something similar for her.

Thanks for a very thorough answer!

It’s possible your original Blender design had an issue. Blender is not always kind to 3D printers.

I’ve had good success with previous Blender files, although this is the first time I’ve used a boolean operator to cut out anything. I usually use FreeCAD for these custom Gridfinity pieces, but the process of converting the .stl mesh to a solid part in FreeCAD seems a bit error prone (several steps involved), and I haven’t yet used booleans in FreeCAD. I could try that again.

The first thing I would tell you is to stop using cubic infill, it is evil. It never always causes me failed prints, especially larger prints. Nozzles often tend to drag across the previous layers and can easily cause failed prints. I can even hear the nozzle hitting the infill as I print. I often recommend gyroid as a good all around infill pattern.

Good to know! I use PrusaSlicer, and this grid infill is the default. The way you describe it sounds like what I experience, and I can in fact see some artifacts when I inspect it closely. Though, the sounds I hear would only start when the concave part starts, and that’s also where I see the failures. But that could possibly because there’s too much overhang over the cubic infill? Anyway, I checked out gyroid pattern, and it was pretty dense with the 15% default infill value. What type of infill % do you typically use? Seems I could get away with less here.

I look at it and I wonder, does the rolling pin need to be supported full length? A wooden rolling pin is ridged and only needs minimal support on the ends. So I might just design the cradle only at the very ends. And then design the middle to be a simple flat that connects the two end pieces. I might even skip the middle altogether and just print the ends. That saves the most material and time and still does the job perfectly.

You mean an open container with maximum depth and width between the ends that holds the ridges? That could be a good way. They way I ended up doing it was essentially just a rectangular cut-out which worked fine and is similar to your suggestion (although I could save more material doing it your way), but feels less custom… as if that is a goal in itself. I would not like the gap by just printing the ends though, as I wouldn’t be able to squeeze anything else underneath and it would not look right to me. Wish I didn’t think like that, so I could save material, but I know myself enough that I would be annoyed every time I opened the drawer…

When it comes to slicing your print, orientation matters. How you support overhangs can be tricky and often compromises must be made. While I will use the auto supports as often as I can, sometimes you just need to use paint on supports to get what you needwhere you need it. Pay attention to the top zed support gap. The defaults are never right. I always open them up more. With a .40mm nozzle, I use a .265mm gap. For a .60mm nozzle, a .365mm gap. You might even need to print your parts at an angle. Often tipping the part at 30 to 45 degree angle can make those nasty over hangs completely printable without supports. And this is only a good beginning. How fast you might print an overhang matters, the amount of cooling fan can affect the over hang, lots of fine details that you will learn about as you keep doing this.

This I will need to read up on more. I don’t actually use supports for these Gridfinity prints (but PrusaSlicer does warn me about potential instability…). The printer handles the overhang between the grids fairly well, but I guess I didn’t think about the long lines crossing the infill. In other prints I’ve only used the auto supports. Could I ask you what slicer you use?

Good Luck and never fear making a mistake!

Thanks! I must admit I do fear it sometimes when the printer makes some weird noises…

That is also my experience. People are certainly opinionated which could be interpreted as hostility in some cases, but most people are willing to share and help when someone less knowledgable have gotten stuck with something.

You could look up 3Blue1Brown’s explainers on YouTube, they are pretty good and shows a lot of visual examples. He has a lot of other videos on other areas of math.

You can export your data from Spotify, and use that as a basis for downloading songs via for example yt-dlp (this can be automated), or slowly build it up again over time in whatever system you set up by buying the albums/compilations containing the songs.