Sorry for the delayed reply. No, too warm won’t cause warping. However, the hold side of your hot end will at best be ambient temperature. If it gets too warm you can clog your nozzle.

My view is “if the chamber doesn’t need to be hotter why make it hotter?”.

If you were printing ASA/ABS you want your chamber to go basically as hot as you can get it though - especially if you’re printing something big.

This is the deepest I’ve ever seen Jerboa render comments.

Lifting on the corners, especially if this was a bed sized print, was probably due to warping. It stinks that it took out your bed, but warping probably wasn’t the cause there.

My main printer these days is enclosed. When I print PETG on it I’ll pop the lid open because PETG doesn’t like to be too warm.

That looks like somewhat similar to an ultrabase bed. I have had one of those on my i3 clone for years and years. I’ve also printed a reasonable amount of PETG on it. Was the print and/or bed warm when you tried to pull it off? Prints detach much better when cool.

The ender 5 isn’t a bed slinger so it should be relatively compact for its print volume. You can certainly get a smaller printer. You can do this by getting a more compact printer and/or sacrificing build volume. If you want compact you’re probably going to want a coreXY

For example:

• your ender 5 pro is 552mm x 485mm x 510mm and has a build volume of 220mm x 220mm x 300
• a Prusa i3 mk3 is 500mm x 550mm x 400mm and has a build volume of 210mm³ (the bedslinger is indeed bigger)
• a 300mm³ Voron 2.4 is 460mm x 460mm x 480mm and has, well, a 300mm³ build volume. They also have a 250mm version that will probably save another 50mm in every dimension
• a Prusa mini is 380mm × 330mm × 380mm and has a build volume of 180mm ³
• a Voron 0.2 is 230mm x 230mm x 250mm and has a build volume of 120mm³
• I gave up on finding dimensions on the salad fork, but it’s probably going to be even smaller than the v0 due to using 15x15 extrusions instead of 20x20